If you have a Porsche 987 or 997 equipped with the PCM 2.1 Navigation unit you probably are experiencing the sticky button knobs issue, there's an easy fix without the need of purchasing new knobs, simply drop 5-6 drops of dishwashing soap with some hot water in a drinking cup or glass let it sit for 2-3 hours and that sticky stuff will bubble up, use a toothpick to clean it up and voila you have new buttons!
Unfortunately when I made this repair I wasn't equipped with my camera or my phone :-( so I searched for some pics online to try and describe this repair. Any questions use the contact page.
I have seen this happen many times and it has happened to my 987 Boxster as well, when you put the top down and put the top back up some may experience the sides of the top not going back to its proper position which is behind the metal side frame, as you can see on the picture below the outer edge of the top does not go back in its original position.
After analyzing my top I noticed 2 things that are causing this issue.
First issue is if you put the top halfway down you will notice a grey string that is attached to the metal frame with a screw, that string looks like a shoe lace, see the picture below.
Please note that on the picture below the top is not halfway down but it clearly gives you an idea of what to look for.
Now the issue is with this grey string is that it breaks , normally this string goes from left to right or right to left in other words it goes from one side to the other, it is held in place by a screw on the inner channel, if you slightly pull on that string and it offers resistance you are ok but if you pull on it and you can pull it out completely you will notice that its broken in half, that string has an elastic string in the middle that is attached to both ends of the strings via metal clips, when this string is functional its function is to apply tension to both sides of the top and guide to channels to their proper position. If yours is broken you can order one from the Porsche Dealer or you can use your imagination and fix that same cable.
Now this cable takes care of the upper side of the top, if or when you fix it your top experiences the same issue it is because the lower portion of it needs to be repaired as well. So let's move one to the 2nd problem.
Sorry no pictures available for this problem ,but I'm sure you will find your way with the following description. The 2nd problem is caused by an elastic band that is attached with a screw to the metal frame of the top, if you put your top a little more than halfway down you will notice an elastic strap that runs from the edge of the top to inside the top close to the far right or left of the window (depending on which side you are working on) you will notice that the band has stretched and it no longer pulls the channel back in , at this point you will need to remove the screw that holds the elastic strap , you will need to use a short torx screwdriver in order to get to it, space is limited as you are working inside the top between the headliner and the actual top so patience is needed , once you remove that screw you will notice that Porsche as made several slots on that strap, looks like they were being pro-active and were anticipating the problem for the future, to get this elastic band you will need to move 2 notches up and re-attach the elastic band with the screw. This will fix your problem.
I once owned a Boxster 2.7L and afterwards a 2000 Boxster S, I count myself lucky to have the opportunity to drive and develop parts on many fine Porsches but for some reason that Boxster 986 model stuck to me, I guess maybe because it's such an iconic car in my eyes, I mean looks to me like its a classic, I like the look of first generation very much , so I said I want another one and intend to keep it for a while and make it part of my car family. Last Year (Spring 2013) I picked up this Boxster S in California, I really liked the Artic Silver / Red Interior combination, I was looking for a low mileage 986 Boxster S regardless of year but it had to have a Red Interior and low mileage that is why I ended up picking this one, there are plenty of Boxsters in my home town but rarely a 2000+ Boxster S with Red interior for some reason most of the Silver and Red Interiors are widely available from 1997 to 1999. This car had only 49K Miles and was completely stock, according to its owner the car was in excellent condition considering that this Boxster is 13 years old, after looking at many pictures it looked good but this came from an owner who just owned a Boxster he wasn't really a connoisseur or Porsche aficionado, he hardly new any technical details according to him the car was above average. So after buying it for a good deal (below market value) I was anxious to get this car but I had my doubts a Boxster S with only 49K Miles with such a nice combination at a price below market value I had said to myself it most probably needs lots of TLC cause when someone owns a Boxster and is not a true enthusiast the car will certainly need lots of maintenance that has never been done.
Here are pictures of my 2000 Boxster S project car I had the time to do a full inspection on a Sunday at home as I could only work on her on my spare time which I don't have much but having it at home will give me the opportunity to work on her after my work days at Maxspeed-Motorsports without blocking access to our facility, so I just like to be like all of yous out there spend some time doing some work and mods at home whenever I have some spare time.
So after receiving the car from the shipping company from the moment I seen the driver unload it I said hummm the previous owner didn't really take care of it as most Porsche enthusiast owner's would, the body didn't shine I mean it was like dull no life to it, the first indicator was the car had 3 tires the same and 1 that wasn't, right there without even inspecting it from A to Z I knew that if the owner had 3 tires the same and 1 that wasn't I could imagine the rest so I then started her up just from the belt noise and the way it idled I said OK... paid below market but it isn't exactly like the previous owner described it but I took my chances I knew that I wasn't buying a pristine immaculate Boxster S but I was mentally prepared for it. So I want to take you through my journey of bringing it back to life, the first step will be to get her 100% healthy before I even do any kind of mods to it.
Everything I will do on this car I will try to document as much as possible so you can possibly do this same work yourself on your Boxster, some parts used are available right here on maxspeed-motorsports.com we will be happy provide you with the parts you need to maintain and modify your Porsche.
First thing I did is obviously changed the oil, just to free my conscience as I had no clue when the last oil change was done. I then hooked up my piwis scanner to do a health check on her, turns out all was fine. From there a complete tune up was performed, I replaced the spark plugs, drive belt, replaced the air filter with a much better air filter a BMC air filter and performed a de-snorkle hack (Search Google "Porsche Boxster 986 De-Snorkel) , the filter and de-snorkel give me some much better flow and nicer engine sound at WOT, I replaced all liquids; Antifreeze, Brake Fluid with the exception of 6 speed transmission oil. I also replaced the oil separator as it also needed to be replaced (common failure on Boxster 986) and I also forgot to mention when I dumped the oil I cut up the filter to make sure all was good and no metal debris were present. I moved to the exterior maintenance, replaced much needed windshield wiper blades and also replaced Cabin Air Filter which is forgotten by most people. I then moved to the brakes which I had already fluhsed the system but noticed that the brake pads where in bad shape and discs were in final stages so I redid all the brakes I mean everything; rotors, pads, shims, springs, sensors. Tires also needed replacement but I figured stock wheels are coming off anyways upgrading to 19's so that wasn't much of a concern for me. After my tune up and brakes were done I took her for a good road test and kicked its ass and she responded just like a well maintained porsche would respond the tune up was much needed the car ran much but much better.
I then moved to the exterior finish and the front bumper needed to be repainted , I didn't care about the rear bumper as I was going to replace it anyways with a 2nd Generation Boxster 986 bumper which IMO looks way better, I wanted to stick to a poly urethane bumper I'm no big fan of fiberglass bumpers, once I got the front bumper repainted I added the EZ-LIP by adding the EZ-LIP i managed to obtain an acceptable look cause I didn't really spot a bumper I really wanted meaning poly urethane aftermarket bumpers there's not much available, the rear bumper I picked up a used Artic Silver bumper in very good shape and proceeded to install it. I then replaced the side air vents with 2nd generation air vents (2003+) , I also replaced the convertible top with a glass window top in burgundy red to kind of give it that unique look , I ended up doing window tints as well. And one day I shined the sh*t out of her to bring the paint back to life, I first gave her a good wash used clay bar to clean up the paint and waxed her with some good stuff. Next I had to ledify this car I started with smoked LED Tail Lights , Led Sidemarkers, Led 3rd brake Light, Led Black Housing headlights with HID Xenon Kit and finally replaced every single bulb in the car with Led Bulbs , now something was happening it was becoming unique to my eyes well not really that unique but not many around like this one. I worked my way to the Sportec 19inch Wheels and 7mm wheel spacers all around, I then dropped the suspension and used H&R springs to lower the suspension... sweet looked amazing and handled very well with the addition of our 986 Carbon Fiber Strut Brace. Then I moved to performance, I replaced the complete exhaust system with NHP 986 Boxster Full Exhaust to get 30 more HP and possibly more with the Softronic ECU Tune, she sounds really great and with the ECU Tune she is much faster at higher RPM band with improved torque lines.
Last I worked the interior, I installed some nice Carbon Fiber Door Sills, had my center console painted in Artic Silver, installed a Spoiler Switch , installed a Short Shifter , changed the Shift Knob and Boot + Handbrake. Of course I did clean the interior to the extreme I mean I removed the seats and stuff and made her brand new again finally Audio upgrade replaced the head unit and speakers to get a better sound.
Just for the sake of this article, some may say that I've written this to push my products, of course in a way I did that's what puts bread on the table for me, but the truth is I am very passionate just like you are.
Guys I may have forgotten certain details for sure, it's late and writing this with the very little time I have in a day. I hope you enjoyed this article post your comments or questions I will be happy to join the conversation.
Oh last but not least if you wonder how much did all this cost ? Well obviously doing the work all myself save me quite a few benjamins but still at the end of the day a couple thousands it didn't come free.
Hello everyone , it's been a long time since I posted anything, finally found the time to post something on my blog that might interest 997 Turbo Owner's. After doing a few modifications to my own 997 Turbo I figured I would take a look at what really matters, one thing is for sure is that the factory Turbo Air Intercoolers are poorly designed , they might be almost efficient for a completely stock 997 Turbo but that's still questionable. As you can see by the pictures below the stock 997 Turbo Air Intercoolers have very thin charged air tanks in other words the charged HOT air that the turbo pushes into the Air Intercoolers on the charger side is in my opinion poorly designed in directing the charged air through the core efficiently, yes of course its better than having nothing and at least the 997 Turbo intercoolers really get fresh air from the outside to cool the charged air, but as the charged air enters the Intercooler it appears that most of the charged air will travel through the middle fins which means that what goes out of the intercooler is of course cooled down a little but not enough, if you don't already know, the cooler the air that enters the intake the more power your engine will make in other words some HP gains will occur. Below is a picture showing the charged air tank on the intercooler I pointed a few arrows that tell the story. You will also notice two X's that point to the area where hardly any charged air will get there.
Now I'm aware that there are far better aftermarket Air Intercoolers available on the market, made of nice aircraft grade aluminum and so on, but I always found that the fitment is not perfect, the mounting points almost never line up correctly and some modifications are almost always necessary and this is due to how these are mounted it is a complicated mounting system... I'm sure there is probably some Intercoolers that are top notch and will fit good, but you have to fork out 3K+ yes there is cheaper ones I've seen and even attempted to install but some require too many mods including a change of hoses due to again the complicated locking system of the hoses on the air intercoolers. Once again I'm sure there are perfect ones out there. But after doing some research and talking to my friendly Porsche Connections I had an opportunity to look at a 997 GT2 RS bare naked in the back end (bumpers removed and stuff) and I noticed the huge factory Intercoolers, I figured they appear to mount the same way , they look similar, they use the same hose system i said to myself? man these should fit a regular 997 Turbo... Guess what they did! With slight modifications to the air ducts they fit nicely, OEM fit, life can be beautiful sometimes, guess what these won't set you back 3K's it's less than half of that! The difference, both the charged air tanks and delivery tanks are much larger and much better designed in every way, the core is thicker, the tanks are bigger, much more fins, I guess Porsche engineers finally woke up, the difference is huge and this will make a huge difference on a stock or modded 997 Turbo. Take a look at the pictures below.
997 STOCK INTERCOOLERS VS 997 GT2 RS INTERCOOLERS
As you can see the pictures tell the story.
The modifications involved to fit these is to drill 6 holes on the lower air ducts and cut the interior lips on the air ducts. because the core is thicker the attachment system will no longer work, I mean the upper and lower air ducts are kind of attached via a strap system, so you will have to drill holes on the lower ducts so you can attach them with tie raps. In addition the interior lips must be cut off with a utility knife so that the air ducts sit flat on the intercooler, those are the only mods necessary. See pictures below.
If you are interested in obtaining a set of these Intercoolers let us know we can provide youwith a price quote.
If you own a Porsche Boxster 986 and you're having difficulties to insert the key or even to remove the key and you feel resistance when turning the key inside the ignition chances are you definitely have a problem with the ignition system and you would need to address it before it becomes a big problem, neglecting this problem could result in having the key stuck in the ignition and losing electrical power in other words it could become a nightmare. A common issue is that if your having problems with flickering lights in your cluster or starter wont even turn and a bunch of weird electrical problems it could just be the electric ignition switch its an inexpensive part and takes approx 30 minutes to 1 hour to replace. I would replace the electrical switch first if your experiencing electrical issues however if the electrical works properly chances are that your ignition lock assembly is the culprit, the lock assembly has been updated from Porsche to resolve this issue the Updated Porsche Part number is 996.347.017.07. To replace the ignition lock assembly it requires removal of the light switch and Air vent, Steering wheel, steering covers, instrument cluster and trim below the instrument cluster, it will take approx 1 to 3 hours to perform the work. The hardest is to get to the ignition lock assembly , removal is not that difficult.
The pictures below show the ignition lock assembly and shows dismantled parts to get to it.
If you have any questions about replacing this part please don't hesitate to ask me questions and I will answer them.
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